In this weekly column, we hope to lead you to a destination of uncommon pleasure and discovery among the plethora of Italy’s native wine grapes.
Home to more grape varieties than any other country, Italy’s wine diversity is often described as endless. Many of these varieties are so climate specific that they cannot be transplanted to another region, they are better able to cope with local microclimates and express terroir, resulting in wines with distinctive and unique aromas. Nothing, however, is perfect and some interesting Italian vines are trivially underrated due to historical reasons, often being left in the shadows of more famous ones.
Fortunately, in the last two decades, this unique abundance is being embraced by growers and producers across the country as they look to revive forgotten indigenous grape varieties and capitalize on the exciting possibilities they offer. Luckily or not, this phenomenon has become a trend and people are now rejecting the so-called big six grape varieties.
Erbaluce: a hidden treasure from the north of Piedmont
Erbaluce is an ancient Italian grape variety cultivated almost exclusively in the province of Turin, near Biella and Novara. The epicenter of the variety’s cultivation is found around the Canavese area, on the Ivrean Basin and on the hills that surround Lake Viverone. The DOCs in which this variety is used are the Colline Vovaresi, Coste della Sesia, and the famous Erbaluce di Caluso.
Early records of the Erbaluce grape date back to 1606, when it was mentioned in Giovanni Battista Croce’s book about the excellence and diversity of Piedmontese wines. Its origins are disputed. Arneis and Greco have both been mooted as related varieties. Recently, some ampelographers place its cradle in the lower Monferrato, while other authors suggest that derives from the area where it is widely cultivated today. But it could also come from much further, as recent genetic analyses have confirmed the kinship with the Greco grape cultivated in Campania.
The berry is white, spherical, of average size with amber colored skin. Its compact bunch is a medium elongated conical shape, oftentimes winged and it has a five-lobed leaf of light green color. The Erbaluce vine has a very high vigor production, but it is not very steady, hence being geographically more limited than many other varieties. The grape gives a straw-colored wine, with high fixed acidity, that is suitable for the production of still, dry sparkling and Passito wines.
Excellent Erbaluce wines are produced by Favaro Winery in Piverone. Erbaluce di Caluso Riserva 2016 is characterized by an elegant aromatic and gustatory profile, presenting itself to the eye with a bright straw-yellow color marked by golden reflections. On the nose, it expresses hints of grapefruit and citrus peel, chalky notes and herbaceous profile, while the taste is refreshing and very persistent, with a long fruity and pleasantly savory finish. Ensuring the same quality but different character and style, they present the Erbaluce di Caluso Le Chiusure 2017, boosting with fruity hints of citrus, white peach, hazelnut, and white flowers, with a fresh and persistent finish.
The historic Ferrando Winery also presents two interesting labels. Erbaluce di Caluso La Torrazza 2017 has juicy acidity and good structure, with pleasant flowery and white fruits notes. Erbaluce di Caluso Cariola 2017 has a different imprint because a part of the vintage is aged in barrels, conferring a round mouthfeel, with savory and persistent flavors of fresh fruit, green apple, and aromatic herbs.
In San Giorgio Canavese city Orsolani and Cieck wineries present very interesting labels. Orsolani’s wine Erbaluce di Caluso La Rustía 2017 has evident notes of tropical fruit with notes of grapefruit and well-balanced acidity, while Erbaluce di Caluso Vintage 2015 is a real surprise, boosting with tertiary aromas and flowery notes. Cieck’s Erbaluce di Caluso Misobolo 2017 can be considered one of the best expressions of the appellation, it has aromas of green herbs, flowers, a mild savory and an incredible evolution in the mouth, while their Ingenuus Erbaluce Tradizione 2015 is a funkier wine version from Erbaluce, vinified with little sulfur and indigenous yeast.
Another interesting Erbaluce’ dry labels:
– Erbaluce di Caluso 2017 from Campore di Caravino has herbaceous and delicate fruity aromas.
– The Erbaluce di Caluso Ypa 2017 from Santa Clelia winery is a rich, full-bodied dry wine. Batonnage is implied in its aging, adding body and mouthfeel to the wine.
– The Erbaluce from Caluso Essenthia 2017 has great intensity of alcohol and power.
Speaking of its incredible sparkling wines we can list:
– Erbaluce di Caluso Brut San Giorgio 2015 from Cieck is made with champenoise method. It has herbaceous and fruity aromas, as well as a great structure.
– Erbaluce di Caluso Brut 2014 from Le Campore is made with 36 months surlie, it has a creamier, full-bodied profile, with a complexity of flavor.
– Erbaluce di Caluso Brut Rigore 2008 from Santa Clelia also passes a long period with the lees, it has tropical fruit flavours and a light palate.
– Caluso M. Cl. Brut 1968 Cuvèe Tradizione 2011 from Orsolani is made with 60 months of surlie and express the complexity that can be achieved with this grape. Is has pastry and honey notes with a creamy mouthfeel.
Traditionally, Passito wines are also produced with Erbaluce grapes, and in our vision the most interesting ones are:
– Caluso Passito 2012 from Ferrando passes through a long aging process that enhances the great potential of this wine. It has notes of dehydrated fruit and honey, which is well-balanced in the mouth by the grape’s high acidity.
– Caluso Passito Sulè 2010 from Orsolani is dried in wooden attic, giving the wine freshness and roundness
– Erbaluce di Caluso Passito Alladium 2005 from Cieck is made in oak and age for one year in the bottle. Has aromas of dried fruit and honey, but also maintain certain elegance.
– Caluso Passito Dus 2008 from Santa Clelia is a full-bodied Passito with high acidity.