{"id":44490,"date":"2020-11-18T05:58:43","date_gmt":"2020-11-18T04:58:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.slowfood.it\/slowine\/?p=44490"},"modified":"2020-11-19T10:34:31","modified_gmt":"2020-11-19T09:34:31","slug":"il-centro-del-sapore","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.slowfood.it\/slowine\/il-centro-del-sapore\/","title":{"rendered":"Il centro del sapore"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a>Cook_Inc \u00e8 una tra le pi\u00f9 belle pubblicazioni cartacee del mondo gastronomico. Per fortuna ogni tanto la direttrice Anna Morelli mi passa qualche articolo da scrivere cos\u00ec, a lavoro eseguito, posso gustarmi, in tutta la sua qualit\u00e0, una rivista che non potrei permettermi di comprare.<\/p>\n

Sull\u2019ultimo numero compare una lunga intervista in cucina con Paolo Lopriore<\/strong> a cura di Gianluca Biscalchin. Per gli appassionati di gastronomia Lopriore non ha certo bisogno di presentazioni. Tra i cuochi italiani pi\u00f9 importanti, oggi lo possiamo incontrare al suo Ristorante Il Portico<\/strong> ad Appiano Gentile.<\/p>\n

Mi hanno colpito molto le parole di Lopriore in questa intervista. A proposito della sua cucina attuale dice \u00abL\u2019idea \u00e8 quella di operare con il rigore di un tre stelle su cibo semplice. Voglio tornare al centro del sapore, troppo trascurato a favore dell\u2019estetica<\/strong>\u00bb. Lopriore vuole riportare l\u2019attenzione della cucina su materia prima e tecnica. Per fare questo ha bisogno di stabilire un \u201cpatto gastronomico\u201d con i clienti del suo ristorante. Loro formano i piatti con la materia cucinata messa a punto dallo chef.<\/p>\n

Non voglio entrare nel merito della realizzazione formale di questa intenzione di cucina, che il cuoco definisce \u201cantemarchesiana\u201d, cio\u00e8 precedente a Gualtiero Marchesi che \u00e8 stato maestro di Lopriore e tra i pi\u00f9 riconosciuti, nel mondo, cuochi italiani. Mi pare davvero centrale invece la volont\u00e0 di mettere al centro il sapore<\/strong>. In un\u2019epoca in cui elaborazione ed estetica sono proposte a ogni pi\u00e8 sospinto, l\u2019esperienza gastronomica qualitativa si definisce per saper riconoscere il nucleo essenziale del sapore.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Il discorso, per quanto mi riguarda, vale anche nel vino. Materia prima e tecnica devono superare un certo tipo di estetica (enologica) che appiattisce i vini privandoli di quel nerbo alimentare che \u00e8 un velo sottile in cui si racchiude il cuore del sapore<\/strong>. A differenza di qualche annetto fa oggi la viticoltura annovera molti esempi di vini materici e ricchi di sapore. \u00c8 attraverso di loro che un palato pu\u00f2 crescere nella distinzione della qualit\u00e0 e finezza di un vino.<\/p>\n

Il patto formativo quindi passa attraverso un diverso tipo di educazione al gusto che deve elevarsi nell\u2019approccio diretto alla materia senza sovrastrutture. Ma fino a che avremo una critica enologica saldamente ancorata a rigidi schemi di assaggio e giudizio tale passaggio sar\u00e0 ancora troppo lento.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Cook_Inc \u00e8 una tra le pi\u00f9 belle pubblicazioni cartacee del mondo gastronomico. Per fortuna ogni tanto la direttrice Anna Morelli mi passa qualche articolo da scrivere cos\u00ec, a lavoro eseguito, posso gustarmi, in tutta la sua qualit\u00e0, una rivista che non potrei permettermi di comprare. Sull\u2019ultimo numero compare una lunga intervista in cucina con Paolo …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":919862,"featured_media":44495,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":"","_links_to":"","_links_to_target":""},"categories":[72,41,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-44490","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-in-evidenza","category-news","category-parliamo-di"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nIl centro del sapore - Slowine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Cook_Inc \u00e8 una tra le pi\u00f9 belle pubblicazioni cartacee del mondo gastronomico. 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