{"id":43316,"date":"2020-06-29T17:09:12","date_gmt":"2020-06-29T15:09:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.slowfood.it\/slowine\/?p=43316"},"modified":"2020-07-03T10:17:46","modified_gmt":"2020-07-03T08:17:46","slug":"vino-o-picciolo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.slowfood.it\/slowine\/vino-o-picciolo\/","title":{"rendered":"Vino o picci\u00f2lo?"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Tra le mani della mia anziana vicina c\u2019\u00e8 un bocciolo verde di un papavero non ancora in fiore.\u00a0\u00abVino o picciolo?\u00bb dice a uno dei miei bimbi che sgrana gli occhi. Non aspetta risposta e apre il batuffolo verde dal quale escono alla luce petali porpora. \u00abVino!\u00bb esclama la donna con gli occhi scintillanti. I miei bimbi non hanno capito molto ma, subito, vanno alla ricerca dei germogli di papaveri per continuare il gioco che, a quanto pare, li ha divertiti un sacco. Il picci\u00f2lo<\/em> \u00e8, nel dialetto lucchese, il vino di uva non troppo matura, di colore scarico quindi, un tempo consumato dai contadini che dovevano quello dei grappoli migliori ai padroni.<\/p>\n

La donna disfa un altro bocciolo davanti ai miei occhi; stavolta \u00e8 di rosa pallido. Tocco i petali che sembrano fatti di tessuto prezioso; non li avevo mai presi in mano nonostante, da tempo, viva in campagna. \u00abQuando ero giovane \u00ad\u2013 mi dice \u2013 passavamo ore in questo gioco. Affidavamo al colore dei papaveri chiusi il nostro destino\u00bb. Ecco perch\u00e9 gli occhi brillavano di non so quale ricordo.<\/p>\n

Mentre ho nel calice questo rosso mi \u00e8 venuta in mente la sensibilit\u00e0 della mia vicina. Sto assaggiando per Slow Wine 2021 i vini delle colline lucchesi. In effetti il colore di questo vino \u00e8 talmente insolito da attirare l\u2019attenzione. Non \u00e8 rosso violaceo o porpora e nemmeno cerasuolo o chiaretto. Ha una luminosit\u00e0 tutta sua e inusuale; mi viene voglia di toccarlo. Lo faccio con la bocca. Ha succo trascinante, pieno e dinamico. La materia liquida lascia il palato intriso di aromi speziati, balsamici. \u00c8 un sorso corroborante e ricco di energia. Un piccolo capolavoro di semplicit\u00e0. Non \u00e8 ascrivibile a categorizzazioni di appartenenza, non \u00e8, per usare il gioco della mia vicina, n\u00e9 vino n\u00e9 picciolo, per quanto la sua essenza mi ricordi certi Cerasuolo d\u2019Abruzzo.<\/p>\n

A fine degustazione apprendo che si chiama Flos-C\u00f2ncori<\/strong>, la vendemmia \u00e8 del 2019; \u00e8 l\u2019ultimo vino realizzato da Gabriele Da Prato<\/strong> sulle colline di Fiattone a Gallicano in Garfagnana. A quanto pare dopo aver fissato un paradigma per i rossi con il suo Melograno, il viticoltore lucchese sta trovando una sua personale declinazione del vitigno syrah poco estratto. Un levit\u00e0 che non sfibra la pienezza del sorso ed esalta la traccia sapida e la voglia di bere. Un\u2019altra prova di talento al quale siamo molto grati.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Tra le mani della mia anziana vicina c\u2019\u00e8 un bocciolo verde di un papavero non ancora in fiore.\u00a0\u00abVino o picciolo?\u00bb dice a uno dei miei bimbi che sgrana gli occhi. Non aspetta risposta e apre il batuffolo verde dal quale escono alla luce petali porpora. \u00abVino!\u00bb esclama la donna con gli occhi scintillanti. I miei …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":919862,"featured_media":43319,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":"","_links_to":"","_links_to_target":""},"categories":[72,41,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-43316","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-in-evidenza","category-news","category-parliamo-di"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nVino o picci\u00f2lo? - Slowine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Tra le mani della mia anziana vicina c\u2019\u00e8 un bocciolo verde di un papavero non ancora in fiore.\u00a0\u00abVino o picciolo?\u00bb dice a uno dei miei bimbi che sgrana gli\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.slowfood.it\/slowine\/vino-o-picciolo\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"it_IT\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Vino o picci\u00f2lo? 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