{"id":29867,"date":"2017-05-11T09:20:10","date_gmt":"2017-05-11T07:20:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.slowfood.it\/slowine\/?p=29867"},"modified":"2017-05-11T09:20:10","modified_gmt":"2017-05-11T07:20:10","slug":"verdicchio-matelica-cambrugiano-ris-1998-belisario","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.slowfood.it\/slowine\/verdicchio-matelica-cambrugiano-ris-1998-belisario\/","title":{"rendered":"Verdicchio di Matelica Cambrugiano Ris. 1998, Belisario"},"content":{"rendered":"

GLUCK \u2013 La bottiglia della sera<\/strong><\/p>\n

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<\/a>dove: ristorante Marchese del Grillo, Fabriano (An)<\/p>\n

con: coniglio sdraiato<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

In giro per il territorio di Matelica – per le visite di Slow Wine 2018 \u2013 all\u2019arrivo dell\u2019ora di pranzo mi fermo al Marchese del Grillo di Fabriano, per mangiare un boccone e salutare l\u2019amico Mario D\u2019Alesio, patron del ristorante (nonch\u00e9 collaboratore di Slow Wine). La location \u00e8 bellissima: una villa d\u2019epoca piena di fascino, ed \u00e8 immancabile il pensiero ad Alberto Sordi che si affaccia dal balcone\u2026<\/p>\n

Mario ci porta in tavola un \u201cconiglio sdraiato\u201d, variante del tradizionalissimo coniglio in porchetta, dove la carne invece che essere arrotolata viene invece servita come una sorta di lasagna. Il piatto \u00e8 buonissimo: cottura perfetta, carne che si scioglie in bocca, saporitissima grazie alle \u201ciniezioni\u201d di pancetta e salciccia.<\/p>\n

Che ci beviamo? E Mario qui si \u00e8 superato, prelevando dalla sua riserva personale una bottiglia di Verdicchio di Matelica Cambrugiano, etichetta di punta della Cantina Belisario: quello che ci ha stupito \u00e8 l\u2019annata\u2026 la 1998!!!<\/p>\n

Il tappo lascia qualche dubbio, ma basta accostare il naso al primo calice e le perplessit\u00e0 si volatilizzano. Il colore \u00e8 un giallo carico, vivo e luminoso. Al naso invece \u00e8 un pout pouri di frutta gialla di grande dimensione, matura: pesca, prugna gialla, ananas e mango, qualche nota immancabile di floreale che si spegne verso un terziario importante. Note variegate di vaniglia e leggera affumicatura, poi un dolce miele di castagno prende il sopravvento e invoglia al sorso.<\/p>\n

Il vino \u00e8 intenso e corposo, l\u2019acidit\u00e0 molto presente \u00e8 autoritaria e dirompente, pur mantenendo una morbidezza di fondo. Ottimamente integrata pure l\u2019accentuata sapidit\u00e0, che dona fascino e prolunga la beva, regalando sensazioni di assoluto equilibrio ed eleganza.<\/p>\n

\u00c8 praticamente impossibile smettere di sorseggiarlo, e nonostante venissi da una mattinata di assaggi i calici si susseguono velocemente, intervallati dal coniglio: un sorso per ogni morso, e la bottiglia \u00e8 subito finita.<\/p>\n

Non avevo dubbi sulla tenuta all\u2019invecchiamento del Verdicchio, ma questa \u00e8 stata una netta prova di forza.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Prezzo in enoteca non definibile, vista l\u2019et\u00e0<\/p>\n

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 <\/p>\n

Questa rubrica ospita il breve racconto\/resoconto di una bottiglia di vino <\/em>– o di birra – <\/em>bevuta la sera precedente a cena da uno dei tanti collaboratori di Slow Wine. Non una grande bottiglia \u201ccelebrativa\u201d, di quelle che si tirano fuori nelle ricorrenze, quanto piuttosto un vino <\/em>(o una birra) <\/em>“comune”, molto bevibile – molto gastronomico, come si usa dire adesso nel mondo della critica enologica – adatto al pasto e al portafoglio (nel senso del buon rapporto tra la qualit\u00e0 e il prezzo). Insomma una buona bottiglia che ha dato grande soddisfazione a chi l\u2019ha bevuta e che, soprattutto, \u00e8 stata scolata in un attimo, \u00e8 finita velocissimamente a tavola con il cibo che l\u2019accompagnava.<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

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 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

GLUCK \u2013 La bottiglia della sera     dove: ristorante Marchese del Grillo, Fabriano (An) con: coniglio sdraiato     In giro per il territorio di Matelica – per le visite di Slow Wine 2018 \u2013 all\u2019arrivo dell\u2019ora di pranzo mi fermo al Marchese del Grillo di Fabriano, per mangiare un boccone e salutare l\u2019amico …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":919862,"featured_media":29869,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":"","_links_to":"","_links_to_target":""},"categories":[62,117,72],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-29867","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-degustazioni-italiane","category-bottiglia-della-sera","category-in-evidenza"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nVerdicchio di Matelica Cambrugiano Ris. 1998, Belisario - Slowine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"GLUCK \u2013 La bottiglia della sera     dove: ristorante Marchese del Grillo, Fabriano (An) con: coniglio sdraiato     In giro per il\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.slowfood.it\/slowine\/verdicchio-matelica-cambrugiano-ris-1998-belisario\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"it_IT\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Verdicchio di Matelica Cambrugiano Ris. 1998, Belisario - 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