{"id":25004,"date":"2016-05-03T10:31:48","date_gmt":"2016-05-03T08:31:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.slowfood.it\/slowine\/?p=25004"},"modified":"2016-05-05T07:30:55","modified_gmt":"2016-05-05T05:30:55","slug":"postmodern-winemaking","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.slowfood.it\/slowine\/postmodern-winemaking\/","title":{"rendered":"Postmodern Winemaking"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.slowfood.it\/slowine\/assets\/2016\/05\/20160503_100829-e1462263659652.jpg\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-25005\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-25005 size-medium alignright\" style=\"margin: 45px 30px 45px 30px;\" src=\"https:\/\/www.slowfood.it\/slowine\/assets\/2016\/05\/20160503_100829-e1462263659652-180x300.jpg\" alt=\"20160503_100829\" width=\"180\" height=\"300\" \/><\/a>Clark Smith \u00e8 enologo e professore universitario aggiunto alla California State University, Fresno e Florida International University. Due anni fa ha pubblicato un libro molto interessante edito dalla University of California Press. Il titolo: Postmodern Winemaking. Sottotitolo: Rethinking the Modern Science of an Ancient Craft.<\/p>\n<p>L\u2019obiettivo del volume \u00e8 quello di definire nuovamente la figura dell\u2019enologo dopo che i tempi contemporanei sembrano svilire il ruolo del tecnico di cantina (almeno negli Stati Uniti e a casa mia). Postmodern winemaking \u00e8 configurata come una vera e propria disciplina che vuole unire le incredibili conquiste tecnologiche avvenute nell\u2019enologia contemporanea con il sapere empirico maturato in 6.000 anni di viticoltura.<\/p>\n<p>Questo \u00e8 interessante: finalmente un tecnico-enologo che pensa che prima di lui vi sia stato un sapere basato su altri tipi di indagini non codificate dalla scienza moderna. La figura di enologo tracciata da Smith \u00e8 una creatura che nella propria dispensa culturale possiede un oceano di conoscenze\u00a0e nella sua pratica quotidiana pu\u00f2 accedere a qualsiasi strumento la tecnologia metta a disposizione. Il tutto per arrivare senza integralismi all\u2019espressione pi\u00f9 profonda dell\u2019anima del vino.<\/p>\n<p>Il libro \u00e8 denso e prodigo di spunti. Il\u00a0confronto con i paladini del vino naturale \u00e8 l\u2019aspetto che voglio sottolineare in questo post. Smith ha chiesto ad Alice Feiring, giornalista sposata alla causa dei vini naturali, la sua lista di proscrizione per la vinificazione naturale. Eccola:<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Wines made from grapes planted on interesting soils and climates, not farmed chemically, irrigated, or picked at over ripeness<\/li>\n<li>No added yeast or nutrients<\/li>\n<li>No enzymes<\/li>\n<li>No bacteria<\/li>\n<li>No added tannin<\/li>\n<li>No added chemicals<\/li>\n<li>No wood \u201cproduct\u201d (wood is used for <em>\u00e9levage<\/em>, NOT for flavor)<\/li>\n<li>No acidification<\/li>\n<li>No chaptalization<\/li>\n<li>No alcohol adjustment<\/li>\n<li>NOTHING should be added that is not from the grape itself<\/li>\n<li>No texture manipulation (MOX)<\/li>\n<li>No reverse osmosis (unless needed to \u201csave\u201d a vintage)<\/li>\n<li>Sulfur used in the minimum, preferably from natural sources<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.slowfood.it\/slowine\/assets\/2016\/05\/alice.jpg\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-25006\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-25006 alignright\" style=\"margin: 40px 25px 40px 25px;\" src=\"https:\/\/www.slowfood.it\/slowine\/assets\/2016\/05\/alice.jpg\" alt=\"alice\" width=\"227\" height=\"320\" \/><\/a>Per Smith la cosa strana di questa lista \u00e8 che vi sono delle omissioni. Perch\u00e9, si chiede nel paragrafo successivo, Alice ha dimenticato: elettricit\u00e0, vasche in inox, gas inerti, refrigerazione e filtrazione sterile? Potrebbe sembrare una provocazione ma non lo \u00e8 fino in fondo. Aggiunge &#8220;Nessuno dibatte se sia maggiormente etico (traduzione mia, il testo originale dice <em>Nobody argues that pumping over is better than punching down, or that pumped transfers are superior to gravity feed<\/em>) muovere il vino con la pompa o attraverso la gravit\u00e0. Sono tecniche di convenienza non di miglioramento della qualit\u00e0&#8221;.<\/p>\n<p>Secondo l\u2019autore del libro la ragione perch\u00e9 in una lista di regole per il vino naturale non si tenga conto di alcune innovazioni tecnologiche \u00e8 perch\u00e9 ormai sono diventate familiari. \u201cSiamo cresciuti con l\u2019elettricit\u00e0 e abbiamo perso la consapevolezza di quanto essa sia strana\u201d prosegue Smith che aggiunge pi\u00f9 avanti \u201cAnche l\u2019introduzione della colla di pesce nel XIX secolo in Francia doveva essere vergognosa, mettere pesce nel vino, ma scherziamo? Oggi la pratica \u00e8 considerata <em>tr\u00e8s chic<\/em>\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>Ancora pi\u00f9 interessante nel paragrafo successivo (sempre libera traduzione per darvi il senso) quando dice \u201cSono a processo su due punti: correzione dell\u2019alcol con osmosi inversa e microssigenazione in partenza di fermentazione. Per Ms Feiring l\u2019osmosi inversa serve a creare poltiglia, semplicemente perch\u00e9 non la conosce. L\u2019osmosi inversa toglie soltanto un noioso eccesso di alcol\u201d. E subito dopo \u201cQuello per cui io vengo condannato \u00e8 lo stesso vuoto di comunicazione esistente per i, tanto amati da Alice, \u201cnaturali\u201d di Borgogna che correggono di zucchero per arrivare almeno al 13 % di alcol senza scriverlo in etichetta. Non vi \u00e8 scandalo. Sono qui per dire che aggiustare l\u2019alcol \u00e8 valutabile e importante come aggiustare il sale nella zuppa. Gli enologi hanno il diritto e l\u2019obbligo di usare tutti gli strumenti per fare il miglior vino possibile\u201d.\u00a0Non so a quali vini di Borgogna amati dalla giornalista Smith si riferisca ma a onor del vero lei nella lista il divieto di zuccheraggio lo aveva inserito.<\/p>\n<p>A me pare un dibattito stimolante sul ruolo dell&#8217;uomo nella vinificazione, sull&#8217;uso della tecnologia e sulla qualit\u00e0 enologica percepita attraverso i filtri della propria e inoppugnabile etica.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Per maggiori informazioni<\/p>\n<p>http:\/\/www.postmodernwinemaking.com<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Grazie a Daniele Parri per avermi consigliato il libro e a Barbara Dagapiti per avermelo comprato.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Clark Smith \u00e8 enologo e professore universitario aggiunto alla California State University, Fresno e Florida International University. Due anni fa ha pubblicato un libro molto interessante edito dalla University of California Press. Il titolo: Postmodern Winemaking. Sottotitolo: Rethinking the Modern Science of an Ancient Craft. L\u2019obiettivo del volume \u00e8 quello di definire nuovamente la figura &hellip;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":919862,"featured_media":25011,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":"","_links_to":"","_links_to_target":""},"categories":[11,168,72,41,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-25004","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-didattica","category-enonotizie","category-in-evidenza","category-news","category-parliamo-di"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.8 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Postmodern Winemaking - Slowine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Clark Smith \u00e8 enologo e professore universitario aggiunto alla California State University, Fresno e Florida International University. 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