{"id":24953,"date":"2016-04-27T08:52:18","date_gmt":"2016-04-27T06:52:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.slowfood.it\/slowine\/?p=24953"},"modified":"2016-04-28T08:34:30","modified_gmt":"2016-04-28T06:34:30","slug":"quarto-colore-del-vino","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.slowfood.it\/slowine\/quarto-colore-del-vino\/","title":{"rendered":"Altre identit\u00e0"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"IMG-20160418-WA0005\"<\/a><\/p>\n

C\u2019\u00e8 una luce in Collio-Brda che pare luce per la prima volta. Si riversa in quantit\u00e0 in ogni dove. Le cose non riescono a trattenere uno spettro cromatico tanto potente, lasciando passare\u00a0cos\u00ec colori e dettagli che non \u00e8 facile vedere altrove.<\/p>\n

Ho sempre pensato che il confine tra Friuli e Slovenia fosse a nord. Sbagliavo; ossia il nord che credevo, appartiene al mio mondo, non necessariamente identificabile con il settentrione di tutti. Qui invece gli uomini un tempo erano al sud di un impero, poi si sono trovati ora a est ora a ovest nel Novecento tragico, per poi coincidere essi stessi con l\u2019idea di confine.<\/p>\n

\"IMG-20160418-WA0009\"<\/a>Gli uomini da queste parti non hanno una vera e propria idea di vincolo\u00a0geografico. Loro appartengono alla storia. E forse, ancora di pi\u00f9, appartengono alla terra che qui \u00e8 calcarea. La conformazione geologica \u00e8 fatta di lastre disposte in modo perpendicolare al suolo. Cos\u00ec le radici possono penetrare in profondit\u00e0 e acquisire complessit\u00e0.<\/p>\n

Ribolla gialla, friulano e malvasia sono i vitigni che da una parte all\u2019altra del confine definiscono l\u2019identit\u00e0 ampelografica. Sono, come tutti i vitigni, nomadi che hanno viaggiato in questo caso da Oriente a Occidente fermandosi sul bordo dell’Italia.<\/p>\n

I vitigni hanno incontrato gli uomini. In Slovenia le vinificazioni hanno seguito maggiormente una tradizione antica, in Italia l’accelerazione del tempo storico ha focalizzato \u00a0l’attenzione sulla tecnica enologica che per anni ha garantito qualit\u00e0 e quantit\u00e0 dei vini prodotti.<\/p>\n

Poi Gravner ha aperto un varco su un altro mondo che ha fatto coincidere ancora una volta Slovenia e Italia. E il confine stavolta \u00e8 la buccia.<\/p>\n

\"IMG-20160418-WA0006\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Scaturiscono oggi vini di intensa colorazione gialla-arancione che alla luce del Collio accendono esaltazioni ed entusiasmi. Sono vini dotati di succo e materia. Hanno la fragranza aromatica dei vini bianchi con il tessuto tannico dei rossi. Sono vini originali e antichi allo stesso tempo. Richiedono un approccio totalmente nuovo e disposto alla conoscenza. Ne vale la pena.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Grazie a Damijan Podversic, a Kristian Keber, alla famiglia Gravner, a Stefano Novelli, a Aleks Klinec e a Mitja Sirk per i saperi e i sapori.<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

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 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

C\u2019\u00e8 una luce in Collio-Brda che pare luce per la prima volta. Si riversa in quantit\u00e0 in ogni dove. Le cose non riescono a trattenere uno spettro cromatico tanto potente, lasciando passare\u00a0cos\u00ec colori e dettagli che non \u00e8 facile vedere altrove. Ho sempre pensato che il confine tra Friuli e Slovenia fosse a nord. Sbagliavo; …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":919862,"featured_media":24959,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":"","_links_to":"","_links_to_target":""},"categories":[72,41,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-24953","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-in-evidenza","category-news","category-parliamo-di"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nAltre identit\u00e0 - Slowine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"C\u2019\u00e8 una luce in Collio-Brda che pare luce per la prima volta. 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