{"id":20767,"date":"2015-05-07T09:53:40","date_gmt":"2015-05-07T07:53:40","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.slowfood.it\/slowine\/?p=20767"},"modified":"2015-05-08T09:24:58","modified_gmt":"2015-05-08T07:24:58","slug":"manna-2007-franz-haas","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.slowfood.it\/slowine\/manna-2007-franz-haas\/","title":{"rendered":"Manna 2007, Franz Haas"},"content":{"rendered":"

GLUCK \u2013 La bottiglia della sera<\/strong><\/p>\n

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\"man\"<\/a>dove: a casa<\/p>\n

con: branzino al cartoccio<\/p>\n

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Un weekend pi\u00f9 lungo del normale mi lascia il tempo di sistemare la cantina. Nascosta nei meandri di qualche scaffale, ben coricata dietro i guanti da lavoro, ho intravisto una borgognotta. Ops, un bianco importante, il Manna 2007 di Franz Haas. A garanzia della durata c\u2019\u00e8 il ricordo della freschezza del vino al momento dell\u2019uscita e la bravura del produttore; per contro gioca la mia cantina d\u2019appartamento della piana padana …<\/p>\n

L\u2019occasione \u00e8 ghiotta, quindi corro in pescheria e recupero un bel branzino pescato all\u2019amo; in frigo qualche Pachino c’\u00e8 sempre, cos\u00ec come nella dispensa ci sono capperi e olive taggiasche. Il cartoccio da mettere in forno \u00e8 pronto. Una ventina di minuti e il pesce \u00e8 sfornato. Prendo stupidamente il cavatappi: inutile, apro la bottiglia chiusa con tappo a vite Stelvin e riempio il primo calice.<\/p>\n

Il Manna \u00e8 un blend di chardonnay, gewurztraminer, riesling e sauvignon blanc, vitigni tutt\u2019altro che banali. Appena lo avvicino al naso i profumi che sprigiona si impossessano di me: si sente il glicine, l\u2019albicocca, la pesca gialla, per arrivare ai sentori balsamici di timo e salvia, per chiudere con idrocarburo e una suadente nota di zafferano. Lo so sembra un\u2019esagerazione di profumi, ma pi\u00f9 passa il tempo, pi\u00f9 si scalda, pi\u00f9 cambio idea e non riesco a tirare una riga sui profumi precedenti.<\/p>\n

In bocca risulta ricco e grasso, pieno e glicerico; l\u2019acidit\u00e0 sta scemando ma \u00e8 ancora ben presente. Estremamente lungo e persistente, gode di una sapidit\u00e0 bella e affascinante, che mi permette di aggredire le carni poco saporite del branzino e di porre il mio abbinamento in equilibrio. In poche parole questo Manna \u00e8 un \u201cpassista da altopiano\u201d dalle spalle, anzi, dalle gambe grosse, ma capace di stare sui pedali con classe, eleganza e tanta finezza.<\/p>\n

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Prezzo in enoteca 20 euro<\/p>\n

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Questa rubrica ospita il breve racconto\/resoconto di una bottiglia di vino bevuta la sera precedente a cena da uno dei tanti collaboratori di Slow Wine. Non una grande bottiglia \u201ccelebrativa\u201d, di quelle che si tirano fuori nelle ricorrenze, quanto piuttosto un vino “comune”, molto bevibile – molto gastronomico, come si usa dire adesso nel mondo della critica enologica – adatto al pasto e al portafoglio (nel senso del buon rapporto tra la qualit\u00e0 e il prezzo). Insomma una buona bottiglia che ha dato grande soddisfazione a chi l\u2019ha bevuta e che, soprattutto, \u00e8 stata scolata in un attimo, \u00e8 finita velocissimamente a tavola con il cibo che l\u2019accompagnava.<\/em><\/p>\n

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GLUCK \u2013 La bottiglia della sera     dove: a casa con: branzino al cartoccio     Un weekend pi\u00f9 lungo del normale mi lascia il tempo di sistemare la cantina. Nascosta nei meandri di qualche scaffale, ben coricata dietro i guanti da lavoro, ho intravisto una borgognotta. Ops, un bianco importante, il Manna 2007 …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":919862,"featured_media":20768,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":"","_links_to":"","_links_to_target":""},"categories":[62,117],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-20767","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-degustazioni-italiane","category-bottiglia-della-sera"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nManna 2007, Franz Haas - Slowine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"GLUCK \u2013 La bottiglia della sera     dove: a casa con: branzino al cartoccio     Un weekend pi\u00f9 lungo del normale mi lascia il tempo di\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.slowfood.it\/slowine\/manna-2007-franz-haas\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"it_IT\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Manna 2007, Franz Haas - 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